Banter poutine and bottle shop, reimagined, returns to Gordon Square

When Matthew Stipe, Adam Gullett and Tom Owen opened the restaurant and bottle shop Banter in 2015, it was an instant staple of the Gordon Square Arts District, serving up Quebec- inspired poutine and fried cheese curds with a down-to-earth approach to dining. 

Five years later, when they shuttered their doors at their original location, everyone was sad to see them go, and many felt it left a poutine-sized hole in the heart of the neighborhood. Stipe said the restaurant closed because of the pandemic and lease issues, but they always planned to return to the area. 

Meanwhile, they were busy at their new stall in the Van Aken District, where they’d opened a restaurant with a pared-down menu of classic Banter dishes in 2018. “When we opened up the Van Aken location we went with the needs of that community, so we went a little more family focused, where we had sliders, we added a buffalo chicken wing poutine, and then boneless buffalo wings,” Stipe said. 

While the Van Aken location created an opportunity to experience Banter’s offerings, the owners were still mapping their return to Gordon Square. When shopping around for potential places for the new location, they considered Ohio City but, according to Stipe, “Gordon Square was always home.”

Last month, after a five-year absence, Banter returned to the Gordon Square Arts District at their new home in the former Minh Anh space, another neighborhood staple, as part of the Welleon, an upscale, mixed-use project. “What I like about this specific location is that we are a little more in the heart of everything that’s happening in Gordon Square and the neighbors are just fantastic, neighbors aren’t necessarily competitors,” Stipe said. “You’re doing your own unique thing and the neighbors just complement each other.” 

Originally Banter had hoped to re-open their doors in 2023, but the restaurant build-out process is a slow one. Despite this disappointment, Stipe said, “Our food is great for winter time. It’s great comfort food.” 

A return to form

Customers can take comfort knowing the Banter menu still boasts the same dishes as the original. Stipe said the restaurant’s opening is something of a return to form, while bringing in new elements. “What we really kind of wanted to do here is re-establish what our original menu was and what people would expect of the original location,” he said, adding that there are items on the West side menu that aren’t available at Van Aken. “We added a duck leg poutine which we couldn’t do on the East side and we added more sausages to the menu.” 

Banter has made an effort to retain a lot of the design of the original restaurant, while creating a more elevated feel. The interior boasts a sleek design, with two distinct sections – the bar side and the sit-down dining area. The bar side is great for those looking to be in the middle of the action with raised booths for dining and a long bar that greets you as you walk in the door, while the sit-down dining is slightly more private. Stipe said the new place was intended to update the original cut-up design, right down to the shape of the bar as you walk in the door. 

However, with the new Banter, instead of three rooms, Stipe said he wanted to create a cozier, more comfortable atmosphere. The bar area is darker toned, juxtaposed against the lighter wood. The dining area is light and airy with pops of color with short and long tables perfect for couples or families looking to enjoy a slower-paced dining experience. Stipe was purposeful with all these choices. “It’s almost like a yin and yang, all the colors that are prominent in one room are flipped in the others,” he said. “But there’s still that same good feeling and flow.”

Today, the original owners have parted ways and Stipe runs Banter with Tony Baucco, who has a minority stake in the business. The pair have a lot to look forward to. While the owners are still catching their breath and basking in being back in their old stomping grounds, they won’t have much time to rest. “Once we are sort of caught up with the opening we will start doing brunch on the weekends (no dates have been set), and then to pay homage to Minh Anh we are going to do Minh Anh Mondays, a Vietnamese-inspired menu,” he said. “One night a week we will have this unique offering for people to try and that allows us to do something a little different.” 

For those patrons who enjoy dining al fresco, when the weather warms, Banter will have a 35-seat patio dining option. The patio seating will offer ample shade in part due to the design of the Welleon building. “Even just the design where the buildings are, there’s a nice little breeze that’s always like a breezeway,” he said. “So it should be a comfortable place to dine.”

For Stipe, Gordon Square is the place to be. “This neighborhood is unique and businesses complement each other,” he said. “There are so many wonderful things that make this neighborhood, in my opinion, easily the best neighborhood in Cleveland.”

Find Banter Cleveland online at www.bantercleveland.com or visit them at 5428 Detroit Ave. in Cleveland or 3441 Tuttle Rd. in Shaker Heights. Banter Gordon Square can be reached at 216/400-7280 while Banter Shaker’s number is 216/777-9965.

Note: Currently Banter is BYOB while they await their liquor license. They do have some soda as drink options. Eventually they’ll serve an assortment of beers & wines.